Exploring Abuja’s Art Spaces

For three days, I was a tourist in my own city, exploring Abuja’s art spaces – discovering new ones and enjoying familiar haunts. Armed with a novelty map that folded into a sort of “visa” page for stamps, I joined new friends (and old) and other culture enthusiasts on the trail of the Abuja Open House exhibition tour.

Abuja Open House is a cultural initiative designed and managed by the International Institute for Creative Development, IICD, with support from the United States Embassy Abuja. This edition, the second, featured twelve participating art spaces – galleries and hotel lobbies – and sixteen partners offering a range of services including media, transportation and accommodation for visiting artists.

My journey began at the FCT’s Exhibition Pavilion. Managed by the city’s Art and Culture Department, the venue would serve as host space for several art associate bodies including the Society of Nigerian Artists SNA, Female Artists Association of Nigeria FEAAN, and the IICD.

Victor Ehikhamenor is an artist, photographer and writer.

Patrick Okigbo is a director at the Centre for Memories Enugu.

Dike Chukwumerije, poet, was a panellist at the Creatives Town Hall session.

Eugenia Abu is a prize-winning writer and one of Nigeria’s foremost broadcasters.

Jonas Schwarz Lausten is a co-owner of Nordic Hotels.

Imal Silva is a management and investment consultant.

Uche Okpa-Iroha is a prize-winning photographer and visual artist.

Day 1

“Culture is constructed and can be intentional.” – Nduwhite Ndubuisi Ahanonu, founder & director, IICD

After the opening ceremony, the mad dash to collect stamps began, as the clouds darkened over the city. Each stamp represented each participating art space, gallery and associate body, and I was determined to get them all (well, as many as possible)! First stop was the Kulture Kode Art Hub in Wuse II. Kulture Kode makes efficient use of its space with a simple maze that brings one up close with the paintings. My favourites were a pair of paintings by Pat Nkwocha. I pretended to help my friend Addis set up her jewellery stand and spent most of the time chatting about the art with another friend, Jay. The rain ushered in nightfall as the three of us made our way to the next location, in Wuye, Nsibidi Gallery, where some of Addis’s paintings were on display. We had two tours at Nsibidi. The first, a tour of the facilities in which the gallery is housed; and second, a tour of the artworks, led by the curator, also an artist. We spent almost two hours discussing the art, revisiting several pieces and even debating! Addis, Jay and I closed out the evening at Nordic Hotel where Victor Ehikhamenor led a lively Artist Talk session that centred around ‘the Artist as Historian’.

With Zainab Sule, musician

With Jay, fellow creative

With Addis, artist

Day 2

“Artists should find positions – artist-writer, artist-researcher, artist-curator, artist-activist…” – Uche Okpa-Iroha

I got lost on the second day of the tour. It would be more accurate to say that I led Jay down several wrong paths (despite Google) before we gave up on having a walking tour and hailed public transportation to get us to our first venue of the day, Moeshen. Our mini-hike may have foreshadowed our meeting up with some members of the Abuja Hash, or maybe I was just looking for connections. Catching up and remonstrations over, I walked through the elegant space that is Moeshen. Located in a penthouse, the gallery offers a breathtaking view through large windows; and of course, a broad collection of art and furniture. I particularly enjoyed the work by Muyiwa Akinwolere and Egyptian traditional wall hangings. It was easy to lose a sense of time. Jay and I arrived late to Obi Nwaegbe’s Artist Talk at Thought Pyramid and in less than an hour, I joined the tour bus on a trip back to Moeshen for Uche Okpa-Iroha’s rousing discussion on ‘Negotiating Our Spaces’, and his work, ‘Plantation Boy’.

Uche Okpa-Iroha is the founder of The Nlele Institute.

Day 3

“We need more biographers for our forgotten.” – Victor Ehikhamenor

Sunday morning was bright and cool; ideal weather for gallery hopping. I made my way to the Exhibition Pavilion to catch the tour bus. I had to wait a little over an hour for more city “tourists” to arrive but I didn’t mind because…Jagermeister, interesting conversations, and fine weather!

On the bus, ready for a tour of the city’s art spaces!

One of the Abuja Open House volunteers, Othy, served as our tour guide. Our stops – Cyprian Ekwensi Centre, Area 10; Nsibidi Gallery; in Wuse II, Thought Pyramid and Kulture Kode; in Maitama, Ozidu House and Transcorp Hilton; and Retro Africa, Asokoro.

My goal – Complete the treasure hunt for stamps from at least 14 art spaces.

By the time the tour was over, night had fallen, preceded by steady rainfall. We made our way, exhausted but excited, to the after-party!

With Othy, our tour guide.

Oya, gather here for a selfie.

 

The second edition of the Abuja Open House took place between October 25 and 27, 2019.